Sail making

Sailmaking goes back centuries and can be seen in many ancient civilisations such as the  Pacific Islanders and the Egyptians. Sails have developed enormously over the years, made originally from flax (linen), then cotton (the best being Sudanese or Egyptian Cotton) and more recently from man made polyester derived fabrics, Essentially the process has remained similar, to provide a robust and stable expanse of cloth that will create and keep a shape to provide horizontal lift to propel a boat.

Sailmaking can be dated as far back as the Vikings but as an industry we would recognise it came to prominence in the 15th century particularly with the creation and ascendancy of the Navy.

Techniques include ‘lofting’ on a floor with strings and battens, creating broadseaming and edge curves to make a controlled aerofoil shape in the sail, then building it using both machine and hand sewing.

Classic sailmaking has additional ‘finishing’ techniques such as hand worked rings, leatherwork, ropework, rat tailing etc. This not only provides strength and protection but is aesthetically pleasing to the classic yachts.

Classic sailmaking as practised by Ratsey and Lapthorn is a niche area of general sailmaking that requires far more hand working and traditional craft. As opposed to more mechanised processes in general sailmaking. James Lawrence sailmakers in Essex is the only other significant  exponent of this craft in the UK.

There is growing interest in learning some of the handwork techniques used in sailmaking, if not the elements used to shape and build a large sail. Hand stitching, edge roping, constructing sewn eyelets and cringles can be taught in craft workshops and used in the making of bags and clothing to lend a nautical character to the item. Ditty bags are a popular product as they can be made to include most sailmaker’s hand-skills. In this way, the constructional elements, applied by hand are more widely preserved than the techniques for putting three dimensional shape into a sail.

Source: Mark Shiner. Orkney College.

• Technology: Sail panels have been sewn together with machines for 150 years. The majority of hand-sewing involves the edging and other details on the sails. Even where the sails are sewn by hand machines or by hand the design is usually computer-produced and sent to a computerised cutting machine. The parts come back as a jigsaw to be sewn in whatever way is decided. Apart from individuals making the odd sail, there are no firms dedicated to hand-made sails.
• Market issues: Many people would like to have sails made traditionally, but very few are willing to pay the price of someone working eight hours a day hand-sewing. The exception might be a restoration project financed by public or charitable funds. The future will depend on builders and restorers of traditional boats being willing to spend the extra money for authenticity.
• Training and skills issues: There are still people able to make sails by hand, but they are not being replaced as they retire. There is virtually no training, although some traditional sail making is taught as part of boatbuilding courses, usually by visiting tutors. A young person wanting to start in traditional sail making would need to join a mechanised firm that might have a branch doing traditional work, or find one of the few ‘old boys’ who still know the craft.

• Wooden Boatbuilder’s Trade Association

• The GalGael Trust

• The Worshipful Company of Shipwrights

• National Historic Ships UK

• UHI Orkney

• Orkney College, Scotland: Led by Mark Shiner. A practical week comes at the end of a period of
  online study covering traditional sail design theory and lofting skills which do not rely on
  computer aided design (CAD), but on ancient rules and measuring practices. Includes traditional
  hand finishing techniques. Mark also runs day
  workshops at traditional maritime events and other venues.
• Boat Building Academy, Lyme Regis: Led by Mark Matthews. Includes, making and repair.
• MM Sail solutions – Mark Matthews: teaches sail making and repair courses

• Ratsey & Lapthorn, Isle of Wight
• Chris Spencer Chapman
• Mark Shiner, Orkney Islands.
• Mark Matthews, MM Sail Solutions, Weymouth.
• Sarah Liscoe, 17th Century Sail Maker

Status: Traditional sail making is considered to be vulnerable. While the numbers are relatively small (opinions differ as to whether there are 11-20 or 21-50 skilled craftspeople), there are a reasonable number doing it and while craftspeople may not be in their 20s, not everyone is over the age of 60.

The Maritime Studies Department at Orkney College in the Orkney Islands, Scotland runs a traditional sail making course. The course features traditional handwork, sewn eyelets and cringles, working with both traditional canvas and modern sailcloth. Course leader Mark Shiner is in discussion with the current sail making industry about a national qualification for new-start sailmakers.

Modern industrial sail making employs will over 100 people.

Our thanks go to our 2025 reviewers:

• Mark Shiner UHI Orkney.

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