Heritage Crafts

Quilting

Quilting is the process of stitching two or more layers of fabric together, often with a layer of batting (padding) in between, to create a thicker, padded fabric, typically used for quilts, but also in garments and other textile art.
CURRENTLY VIABLE
Status
Currently viable
Craft category
Textile
Historic area of significance
Area practiced currently
UK
Origin in the UK
18th Century

History

The history of quilting goes back thousands of years, with evidence found in ancient Egypt and other regions. Quilting arrived in Europe through contact and trade with the Middle East, and particularly after the Crusades, including when it was learnt that the Turks wore several thick layers quilted together under their armour. In the cold and harsh climate of northern Europe, the technique therefore offered warmth alongside protection. 

In medieval Europe, quilting became part of needlework traditions, and also became a medium for storytelling and depicting scenes from legends. An early example includes the Tristan quilt, a decorative piece in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Medieval quilted garments, such as the gambeson and arming doublet, were worn under or instead of chain mail. 

Since items such as bed covers typically involve large surface areas, quilt making has been associated with social occasions where people sew collectively. For example, in North America early settlers from England and Holland established quilting as a popular craft. 

Quilting became popular in Britain in the seventeenth century, used for quilted silk doublets and breeches worn by the wealthy and later for petticoats, jackets and waistcoats, professionally produced in major towns and cities including London, Exeter and Canterbury. Quilting also has a domestic history, with many women quilting items for home use. The craft’s popularity has fluctuated according to changes in society, and styles have developed according to resources available and the social status of the maker. 

The invention of the sewing machine in the early 1800s greatly advanced household sewing, allowing more time for pursuits such as embroidery and quilting.

The late-nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries saw the heyday of the wholecloth quilt, a traditional skill passed on through the generations in Wales, the North Country and the Scottish Borders. In the North Country, quilt ‘stampers’ were professional markers who drew designs onto plain or pieced tops, whilst in Wales professional quilters would travel around making quilts to order. Each area developed their own particular style and popular motifs, with feathers and twisted ropes common in the North Country and leaves and spirals often found in Wales.

The twentieth century was a time of great fluctuation. The interruption of two world wars and a dramatic shift in society led to a scarcity of available materials and decline in traditional skills. Competition from commercially manufactured alternatives meant traditional quilts seemed time consuming and undesirable. However, some people could still see their value, and continued to practise, teach and research patchwork and quilting, leading to an eventual resurgence of interest in the 1960s and 1970s. In 1979 The Quilters’ Guild was formed with the intention of ensuring the traditional crafts of patchwork and quilting were passed on, and to represent a new wave of quilters to take the craft into the twenty-first century.

Techniques

  • Charm quilt – a type of scrap patchwork technique using lots of different fabrics, however, no fabric is used more than once in the canvas.
  • Crazy quilt – different sized fabric pieces (with straight edges) are kept on top of foundation fabric (a cotton lining material) cut to the desired size of the quilt/patchwork. The pieces are joined using insertion stitches. 
  • Wholecloth – a design is stitched into a quilt which is made from a single piece of cloth. 
  • Stash and stitch – a number of pieces in different colours are stacked on top of each other (right side up, and ensuring no similar pieces are stacked together). Using a rotary cutter, the layers are cut across using a scale as the edge. By moving one piece down, all are shuffled and each piece is now paired with a different piece. These are then stitched together. 
  • Bargello patchwork – a type of quilt design in which the pieces are designed so that it looks like waves of colors going up and down (gradients). The fabrics must be of one colour in different shades and two or three fabrics of another colour in different shades.
  • Applique – e.g. the Baltimore style (originating in Maryland, USA). Designs are often floral but many other motifs are also used, incorporating many primary colours such as reds and greens. Each block is appliqued with a different design.
  • Miniature quilts
  • Machine quilting
  • Hand quilting

Although quilting can just use basic running stitch or backstitch, each stitch has to be made individually to ensure it catches all the layers within the quilt. Where the stitching is laid down in decorative patterns, it can be extremely fine work.

Local forms

There are a wide range of local and regional design variations but they use similar techniques.

Issues affecting the viability

  • Textile waste – like the broader textile industry, quilting faces the issue of textile waste. 
  • Fabric challenges – using the wrong type of fabric, particularly when working with vintage or reclaimed materials, may cause unpredictable shrinkage or staining. 
  • Time-consumption – quilting can be time consuming and labour intensive. 
  • Small business issues – the cost of high-quality fabrics and other quilting supplies can be a barrier for some makers. 

Support organisations

Training organisations

A list of local classes and workshops can be found here: http://quilling-guild.weebly.com/local-quilling-groups.html

Other information

There are many quilters and it is an enormously popular craft activity, there are over 30,000 members within the Quilter’s Guild and affiliated groups, and over  25,000 people annually visit the Festival of Quilts over a four day period.

References

National Lottery Heritage Fund
Swire Charitable Trust
The Royal Mint
Pilgrim Trust
Maxwell/Hanrahan Foundation
Hugo Burge Foundation

Craft inspiration direct to your inbox

Become a Heritage Crafts Fan and receive a free monthly newsletter about craft announcements, events and opportunities.

Subscribe