Framework knitting was once one of the most important industries in the East Midlands. It started in Nottinghamshire where William Lee of Calverton invented the stocking frame in 1589. After a patent was refused by Elizabeth I, Lee took his invention to France in 1608 where he later died.
Lee’s brother and other workers set up a framework knitting business in Spitalfields, London and a charter was granted forming the London Company of Framework Knitters. The greatest concentration of machines was in London but other areas, namely the East Midlands began to increase the numbers of machines until the roles were reversed and Nottingham and Leicester had the greater proportion of machines. By 1782 the East Midlands could boast 90 per cent of the country’s stocking frames. The breakthrough with cotton hose came with the introduction of Jeremiah Strutt’s attachment for the frame which produced his ‘Derby rib’ in 1759.
The East Midlands was the centre of stocking frames for some considerable time. In Nottinghamshire, areas around Mansfield, Sutton-in-Ashfield, Southwell, Bulwell, Arnold, Hucknall, Nottingham, Ruddington and Keyworth saw the rapid expansion of the domestic knitting industry. An estimated total of 14,879 frames were being worked in Nottinghamshire.
With a change in fashion at the beginning of the 19th century, there was a decline in the framework knitters staple – ‘fancy work’. The smaller frames could only produce small quantities of quality goods at a time, whereas, the new larger frames could produce wider lengths of material and the use of ‘cut ups’ became a major grievance for the knitters, who saw the introduction of these larger machines as a threat to their skills and a reduction of standards and the loss of traditional crafts. The first Luddite disturbances occurred in Nottinghamshire in 1811.
Framework knitting was a domestic industry. The whole family worked in the industry. The men normally did the knitting, the women spun the yarn and finished the hose, which required needlework skills for seaming and embroidery. The work was given out through a middle person and the knitters had to accept the wage or go without work. For many they lived in abject poverty and wretchedness. The children would begin to help as soon as they were able.
In the second half of the nineteenth century, steam powered knitting machines allowed the industry to progress to a proper factory based phase. Framework knitting all but disappeared with just a few knitters carrying on producing specialist work for niche markets.
Techniques vary depending on the branch of the craft. Knitted lace or shawls requires the use of lace bars or hand transfer work. Stocking production requires producing shaped fully fashioned lengths on fabric and creating a variety of ribs. Hand frame knitting can also produce striped or diamond work.
The craft produced different products in different area dependent on local skill and availability of raw materials. Leicestershire specialised in wool product, Nottinghamshire predominantly cotton and Derbyshire a mix of cotton, wool and silk where it was spun on the River Derwent. Communities worked together to produce whole garments so many villages developed specialisms such as stockings, gloves, caps, ties, shirts or surgical hose.
There are no formal training opportunities available in frame work knitting.
However, GH Hurt & Sons do offer ‘on the job’ training to employees and the Framework Knitters Museum in Ruddington offer training, in exchange for volunteer work at the museum or for a fee.
The Framework Knitters’ Museum runs weekly workshops and regular taster events.
Individual craftspeople:
According to the Framework Knitters’ Museum there are other knitters who are skilled but are not active.
Businesses employing two or more makers:
The Bonsall Framework Knitters Workshop
This is a National Lottery Heritage Fund supported project, started in October 2024 and running through (and beyond) 2029. The Grade II listed 1737 framework knitters’ shop at Yew Tree Farm in Bonsall has been vacant since the last known framework knitter at this address passed away in 1911. This workshop, unmodified from its original form, still has spare knitting frame parts hanging above the windows. Its poor condition currently prevents public access. The project aims to repair and revitalize the building, transforming it into a learning centre that conserves and enriches local industrial heritage while raising interest in the critically endangered craft of framework knitting. As custodians of this rare piece of East Midlands history, the owners are committed to contributing positively to the village’s cultural landscape through ongoing heritage craft and history-related educational activities, both in person and online. As part of this, the owners have started the process, in collaboration with the Framework Knitters Museum in Ruddington and Martin Green (last commercial framework knitter) to acquire a working machine and become trained on how to operate and maintain it. The Bonsall workshop is set to open on a limited basis for visitors in summer 2026.
The University of Derby is contributing to this project in the following ways:
1) Development of an online audio-visual immersive experience, by recording the sounds of knitting frames, the acoustics of historic knitting workshops, and 3D visuals.
2) In depth interviews with Martin Green to capture his personal story as well as aspects of the technological and social history of the craft.
All of the above will be publicly available through the project’s website (set to launch in 2025). Once the workshop is open to the public (from summer 2026), there will be monthly open days, history talks, and live demonstrations. This will initially be in collaboration with the Framework Knitters Museum in Ruddington, but will eventually be delivered by the private owners of the workshop, who are in the process of learning the craft and its history.
Our thanks go to our 2025 informants:
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