Weaving in Wales dates back to the Middle Ages when wool production was a major industry in the region. Wool was abundant, thanks to Wales’ large sheep-farming economy, and weaving became a traditional household craft in rural communities. Initially, Welsh weavers made lightweight woollen fabric, called flannel and produced practical items like blankets, shawls, and garments to withstand the chilly climate.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, as the Industrial Revolution took hold, Welsh woollen mills expanded, allowing for larger-scale weaving. This era marked the rise of distinct regional patterns, such as the now-famous Caernarfon design. Using a double-cloth technique (plain weave), which weaves two layers of fabric simultaneously, weavers created durable, reversible textiles with intricate geometric patterns.
By the mid-20th century, Welsh tapestry saw a resurgence in popularity, especially in the fashion and interior design markets. Welsh mills became renowned for their unique tapestry products, showcasing bold, colourful designs.
Historically, the term carthen has been used to describe a coarse woven cloth and checked blankets in Welsh. Today, however, it has come to describe the distinctive double-weave Welsh blankets, particularly those featuring vibrant yarns and bold geometric designs. The most distinctive of these is the Caernarfon Portcullis pattern.
N.B. The word ‘tapestry’ is commonly used in Wales to describe the geometric double cloth pattern weaving that is peculiar to the Welsh blanket mills. This is not to be confused with the use of ‘tapestry’ in other woven textiles, where it is defined as a hand woven discontinuous weft technique, usually creating a heavyweight, entirely weft-faced resulting cloth.
Double Cloth Weaving: Two separate layers of ‘plain weave’ fabric are woven simultaneously and interlinked at strategic points, to create a geometric, repeat pattern. This produces a thick, warm, and reversible textile with inverted patterns on each side—a hallmark of Welsh tapestry. The fabrics are usually woven on 8, 12 or 16 shafts, and more rarely 20 or 24 shafts depending on the loom specification. The warp is sett to weave a balanced weave, so we see an equal balance of warp and weft. To achieve the distinctive purity of colour and selective balanced colour mixing, the designs are often woven in a palette of 2 – 8 colours, defined by the number of shuttles the mechanised looms can accommodate.
Use of Wool: Traditionally made from 100% pure wool sourced from local Welsh or British sheep breeds. At height of industry in 20th century this wool was also imported from Australia & New Zealand.
Dobcross Power Looms (Industrial Revolution Onward): From the 19th century onward, Dobcross shuttle power looms were adopted in many Welsh woollen mills. These looms mechanized the weaving process while still allowing complex double-cloth patterns produced by pattern chains, greatly increasing production without sacrificing quality. Many traditional mills in Wales still use Dobcross looms today.
Modern Looms: Melin Tregwynt has transitioned from traditional flying shuttle looms to modern Rapier looms, embracing technological advancements to enhance production.
Pattern: Intricate geometric patterns are drafted and programmed into the loom using peg plans, pattern chains or jacquard mechanisms. Common shapes include stars, crosses, diamonds, and keys.
Caernarfon is a generic design that can be woven by any mill with the right machinery and suitable number of shafts, but most mills had designs that were unique to them, and this is still true of the remaining mills today.
Market issues: The market for Welsh woollen blankets as a premium product is vibrant and there are good opportunities for developing sustainable wool products.
Lack of technicians: A limiting factor is a lack of skills and knowledge to maintain and repair historic looms and to create the pattern chains required to weave the traditional tapestry designs.
Lack of training routes: In 2014 an apprenticeship scheme was developed by Creative Skillset Cymru. They were then the industry skills body for the Creative Industries in Wales and had developed a pilot apprenticeship programme to support the growth and sustainability of the Fashion and Textiles industry. This scheme is no longer available, but discussions are taking place between Melin Tregwynt Mill, the National Wool Museum and Cambrian Wool to develop an alternative more suited to the woollen textile industry.
There is no formal training currently available.
Amgueddfa Cymru, Museum Wales, is currently training craftspeople.
Traditional woollen mills in Wales producing double cloth:
Traditional mills weaving woollen products:
Artisan makers and designers:
On retirement of Melin Teifi, the working machinery has been acquired by Amgueddfa Cymru, this includes 4 Dobcross Looms. Former owner and weaver at Melin Teifi, Raymond Jones, is currently training museum staff but they are not yet producing commercially.
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