Beetling is a mechanical textile process in which fabric is wound around a large wooden beam and evenly pounded over the course of several weeks by blunt wooden hammers. The hammers are lifted and dropped by ‘wiper’ beams, a large helix-shaped beam positioned above the fabric beam. Traditionally beetling is performed on linen which is impregnated with starch before being loaded by hand onto the beam still wet, where it slowly dries over time creating a very flat fabric with a beautiful sheen.
Sheen has been added to linens and cottons for centuries, originally this would have been done by beating fabric against rocks. It was in the 1720’s and 1730’s that beetling became a mechanised process as engines were designed to carry out the physical pounding of the fabric.
William Clark were beetling in Upperlands from 1736 to 2024 and the current engines have been in operation for around 150 years. In 2025 the lease of the Upperlands Mill transferred to Andrew Wilson, who intends to operate the mill for both commercial and historical reasons.
Contemporary applications of linen
Linen fabrics made from flax are strong, as flax fibres are one of the strongest bast fibres, and are frequently used in the manufacturing of shirting, suiting, curtains and even in furniture and composite materials manufacturing as an alternative to hazardous fibreglass. Flax fibre production has considerably lower environmental impacts compared to other natural fibres as they are easy to grow, and no irrigation and fertilisers are needed. Linen fabric is popular in shirts and suits for its high strength, heat insulation, moisture absorbance and high breathability.
Although beetling is an ancient process, it is still the core process to introduce sheen in linen fabric. The process is sustainable and eco-friendly as water and energy usage is very low, and the traditional process uses only natural starch and no other chemicals.
The beetling operation needs the skill to achieve quality finishing. Operation of the engines involves heavy, hands-on work from loading the beams, manoeuvring them into place, lifting and dropping the hammers, with the beetler ultimately deciding from experience when the fabric is ready to take off the engines.
Traditionally the process creates fabric used in tailoring for seam reinforcement and is normally hidden from sight despite its beauty. It involves impregnating the linen with starch and passing it through a mangle to remove excess solution. The fabric is then fed onto the beams by hand and stitched tight. The beetler then drops the hammers on the cloth and leaves it pounding for several hours as the beam turns. The fabric is then rotated by hand and the process begins again. This happens in cycles over 4 weeks. Each time the fabric is rotated the beetler smooths out creases and ensures marks don’t develop, this attention to detail creates the smooth, pristine and silky finish beetled linen is known for.
The final stage of the process involves hanging the fabric in the loft from the rafters for 24 hours, this removes any residual moisture from the fabric. It is then beetled for a few hours to give it a final buff.
Training and recruitment issues: Skills shortage in traditional manufacturing areas is a significant issue, providing challenges for the future development of many of these businesses. Generally finding staff is challenging and the business hasn’t had any trainees for some time. Many of the current beetling process operators are near retirement and none is available to take their role. It would be a very particular person who would be interested in this role. Funding and qualifications would be auseful tool in making the craft more appealing to the younger generation. Recent limitations in reaching new markets have stifled the potential for the need to train new beetlers.
Market issues: There is a loyal customer base, so the core market is stable but it is more challenging to expand into new markets. The traditional process produces a beautifully finished linen, but the finish is fragile as it is made entirely naturally with starch and will ruin when it gets wet. This has limited its use as a decorative fabric. Despite this, beetled linen is popular with designers. A recent R&D project with the Fashion, Textiles and Technology Institute of the University of the Arts London through the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC)-funded Business of Fashion, Textiles and Technology (BFTT) project has helped in the revival of the 200+-year-old Irish linen beetling process and paved the way to offer a more durable sheen in linen products with water and stain repellent properties, widening their applications.
Supply of raw materials, allied materials and tools: The main Limitations are around making, maintaining and sourcing beetling engines and equipment. Most engines were broken up over time. The linen used for tailoring is currently imported but there are potential future opportunities for using locally sourced, sustainable materials; utilising higher quality locally sourced linens formed part of the research with UAL.
Ageing workforce: The last remaining beetler is over the age of 50. Due to the heavy and potentially dangerous nature of the engines, any new trainees need to be competent, sensible and mature.
Legislative issues: The process is very loud and involves heavy moving machinery. Safety needs constantly reviewed and occupational health monitored.
There are no formal training options for linen beetling.
William Clark & Sons ceased trading in 2024. The lease of Upperlands Beetling Mill transferred to Andrew Wilson who is continuing to operate the mill for both commercial and historical production of beetled linen fabric.
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