Early History (Prehistoric–Medieval Periods)
Tudor and Stuart Periods (16th–17th Centuries)
Industrial Revolution (18th–19th Centuries)
20th Century Decline
21st Century Revival
Today, flax, hemp, and nettle fibres are seeing renewed interest as part of the UK’s sustainable textile movement.
These processes refer to the traditional hand processes, although some processes are also carried out with specialist machinery.
Flax Processing (Linen Production)
Hemp Processing
Nettle Fibre Processing
These traditional methods are now being refined with modern technology to improve efficiency and sustainability.
Allied crafts/trades
Increased awareness of hemp, flax and nettle fibres: There has been a great deal of interest in hemp and flax growing in recent years both as a craft and as a method of working towards a more sustainable future. Flax growing is a particularly good way of introducing people to natural fibres and even the shorter varieties primarily produced for edible seed do give fibre.
Sustainable fibre production: Hemp and flax are both considered to be sustainable fibres, using considerably less water and pesticides than cotton. They are also well suited to the UK climate and could reduce dependence on imported textile fibres.
Opportunities for innovation: There has been a resurgence in interest by universities and other researchers into the potential for using hemp and flax in a wide range of applications including composite materials and engineering. Some of these, such as Hempcrete, are now widely available.
Market issues: There is a demand for UK made linen but there are issues around processing and the supply chain. The supply chain isn’t yet functioning, so local farmers are not yet growing on any scale. Any UK made linen is likely to be higher in cost, this needs to be carefully considered and alternative business methods developed to support local production.
Supply of raw materials, allied materials and tools: Getting flax seed is an issue as it is imported and sold under licence. Machinery and equipment are obsolete and there are issues around maintenance and spares. Mallon linen and others will often have to refurbish, invent or adapt tools to do the job. For example, Mallon Linen are retting flax in recycled cheese vat.
Small business issues: There is a lot of work in setting up a small business to do this process.
Ageing workforce: In Northern Ireland much of the knowledge is still held within the older generation. The people with working memory of flax and linen production are now quite elderly. In the rest of the UK this knowledge was lost some time ago.
Legislative issues: Flax seed is by legislation classed as an agricultural crop and therefore new or even heritage varieties would have to undergo testing etc. to be sold. Seeds are also subject to plant breeders’ rights which protects them from un-authorised reselling or packaging.
Global and geopolitical issues: Brexit has made importing seed more difficult
Flaxland – Simon and Ann Cooper, founders of Flaxland in 2008, have been instrumental in reviving the cultivation and processing of flax in the UK. Combining their interests in traditional maritime wooden boats and farming, they have explored the use of homegrown flax for fabric-covered crafts, leading to the establishment of Flaxland.
At Flaxland, located near Stroud, Gloucestershire, they focus on growing flax and processing it into linen using traditional methods. They have developed hand tools and techniques to harvest and process flax by hand, aiming to reintroduce these skills in the UK.
Simon Cooper is also developing flax fishing nets that utilise traditional techniques. The products of this will be displayed at the Clovelly Herring Festival.
Through workshops and educational initiatives, Ann and Simon Cooper share their expertise in flax cultivation and processing, promoting the use of natural fibres in both traditional and modern applications.
Let’s Grow Flax – founded by Brigitte Kaltenbacher, is a communal flax growing group with 15 core members and 30 members in total. 8 of them have gone on to making their own tools. In 2024 they managed to produce a pair of linen denim jeans from the group’s crop and fibre.
The plans for the tools are available Open Access: Build a mini flax break by Let’s Grow Flax
Totnes Grows Flax – a partnership between Liflad CIC, The Flax Project and Transition Totnes will engage community in the South Hams area to grow flax this year. We hope also to join forces with the European Groups doing the same 1sqm flax growing.
A partnership between Liflad CIC, Southwest England Fibreshed, Fantasy Fibre Mill and Wessex Community Assets has funding to revive the textile industry in the Southwest with a focus on flax. They will work collaboratively and with other organisation like Flaxland and The Flax Project, sharing funding and resources to develop the necessary small-scale infrastructure and culture in the region.
The Flax Project – Flax Project CIC, founded by Vicky Putler, is based in Plymouth and SE Cornwall. Its mission is to revive sustainable, non-polluting small scale linen production in the South West, Tamar Valley and Plymouth and provide training and education in flax and textile crafts.
It is also estimated that there are around 25 flax growing projects UK wide.
There are no formal training providers for flax processing. However, there is an active community of people and community projects offering short courses.
Short courses in flax growing and processing
Area currently practised
There are pockets of activity across the UK associated with the increase in the growing of flax, hemp and other fibres.
Hemp is being grown in the UK in modest but increasing amounts for a variety of product s including fibre products such as hempcrete and textiles.
The only commercial flax scutching is currently taking place in Northern Ireland. Small-scale experimental amounts of flax scutching, on newly developed open-source machinery, is happening in Scotland and Dorset.
Origin in the UK
Research has shown flax and linen production in the UK dates back to 4000BC. Archaeological evidence suggests that flax was cultivated and used for textiles in prehistoric Britain. The Romans (1st–5th centuries CE) further encouraged linen production, introducing improved cultivation and weaving techniques.
Flax fibre: Innovation and Change in the Early Neolithic A Technological and Material Perspective Susanna Harris University College London, 2014
https://discovery.ucl.ac.uk/id/eprint/1468221/1/Harris%202015%20Flax%20Innovation%20TSA%20913.pdf
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